Geneva, Switzerland

Geneva is not unlike Edinburgh, subject of my most recent post, in that both cities are of a certain size that makes them walkable, human and beautiful. Both boast Old Town parts, complete with gorgeous buildings evocative of the distant past but very much alive and buzzing with life; both also have their share of modern buildings, some more successful than others.

Unlike Edinburgh I had not known Geneva particularly well, having visited a handful of times from the 1970s through to the 1990s, so had little attachment to the place and thought little of it. When my friend Nicholas moved there a few years ago for work I ended up visiting him (as is my wont), enjoying his kind hospitality, visiting relatives down the road as well and, in the process, discovering a bit more of Geneva. Fickle thing that I am, it won a bit of my heart with its beauty, orderliness and efficiency, though the cost of everything is indescribably high, even to a Londoner.

Architecture in Geneva is not uniform, though the majority of the older buildings have a symmetrical, austere and rather heavy, but elegant, style. A few extravagant buildings of gothic influence lurk, as do utilitarian, plain others, with a few classical facades thrown in for good measure; the modern buildings, generally glass and steel, are not entirely unsuccessful even if they do not quite fit in with their neighbours and the pervading Calvinistic air. Monstrosities are few near the city centre but abound on the outskirts, evidence of the need for inexpensive space and the lack of appreciation of beauty in the years following the 2nd world war and up to, I think, the 1980s. Society has become a bit more discerning since, I feel, and a bit more style is creeping in once again, even to buildings at the lower end of the market spectrum.

This is a city with a big heart and an even bigger mind, as it has in the past been a source of radical thinking within (Calvinism, Reform etc.) and without (the United Nations have a significant base here) religion and now houses CERN (the European Nuclear Research Centre, just outside), where scientific research is taken to new heights. The good citizens of the place have been proud supporters of Geneva's independence of thought and remain so to this day, with their quiet determination. It is this quiet way of going about things that creates the illusion of a boring city where little happens and not a lot is produced, a sleepy, prosperous backwater, a hive of inactivity. In reality this is a busy city under the surface, being an important banking centre, probably the most important watchmaking centre and, of course, the city with the greatest number of international organisations in the world. The international character of the city means that something like 40% of the population are foreigners of some description, which is good and bad in certain respects but contributes to its prosperity.

Prosperous it is, massively expensive too as mentioned earlier, but as just mentioned it is also a hive of activity for business and commerce, not to mention diplomacy. With a long tradition of independence in thought and allegiance, Switzerland in general and Geneva in particular often features as the base for conferences aiming to help resolve international disputes, more often than not under the aegis of the UN. True to say, though, the Swiss banking system in the past has also provided refuge for the ill-gotten fortunes of many international rogues, despots and what-have-yous, leading to accusations of aiding and abetting in international crime. New banking regulations involving tighter controls on the movement of money, high costs and better international cooperation mean that this issue is on the way to disappearing, to the great relief of the Swiss in  general, and bankers in particular. This may limit their income somewhat but improve their standing and cooperation with the rest of the world.

Restaurants are plentiful but it is not easy to enjoy them fully, as their - sometimes breathtaking - prices make it difficult to order to one's heart's content in both food and wine. Maybe, just maybe I'll write about that in a separate post, especially as kind friends have fed and watered (yeah, right!) me decently in the last few days.

Be patient, dear reader. It is a virtue that I'm sure John Calvin would have approved of.