Friday 2 November 2018

My Ode to Joy!

Many people find joy in different things, some in music, others in nature; some, like me, find happiness in food and drink. This doesn't mean exactly that 'we live to eat' but food is an important part of our life in all its manifestations.

Interest in food, like interest in wine, does not mean only focussing on expensive stuff in sophisticated restaurants but in seeking to extract maximum pleasure out of even the simplest, most basic ingredients. One becomes a critic, often severe, of everything in the pursuit of something better, more satisfying, with quantity not necessarily relevant. We look, scrutinise and select more carefully than the average person at every level, be it buying bread, butter or caviar (for those who like it and can afford it), then proceed to derive great pleasure from their consumption.

While taste and preference are individual things, there is such a thing as absolute quality in ingredients and we food enthusiasts seek it out, embrace and support it. The organic produce movement is benefitting from this, as is animal welfare to a large extent, with well-informed and concerned foodies putting pressure to improve standards, not solely from altruistic motives. Nevertheless, informed criticism and pressure is helping to improve human interaction with nature and all that dwells within.

In the real world and thanks to the generosity of friends I have been eating and drinking lots, including some remarkable stuff, so that my clothes are now seriously complaining of the strain they are being put under... Still, some of the things I drank over the last few days are worth telling you about:

1. A couple of Santorini wines - not tasted together - from Sigalas, one of the top producers from a greek island where most of the wines are good, some are excellent and some are truly spectacular on any scale. Though the prices are rising, making them less affordable for the drinking public, they are also helping secure their future in the fightback against the unchecked growth in tourist accommodation. Their delicate, complex fruit is full of mineral notes on both nose and palate, is balanced with zinging acidity and makes them a perfect partner for fish, simply cooked. The straight Santorini 2016 I had was pretty damn good, subtle and typical, the Nychteri 2013 (so called because the grapes are harvested at night) bigger, richer, more of a blockbuster but still immensely elegant. White wine really rarely gets any better than wine made on Santorini and its worth every penny, so start saving now to be able to drink it.

2. Dom Perignon champagne 1993 - who says champagne doesn't age? Golden colour, little sparkle but an explosion of taste, liquid nuttiness, bit of fruit, long, long, long. Yep, it's nothing like a young champagne, explosive and acidic, but it is an incredible mouthful, a rare pleasure worth seeking out for any serious wine lover.

3. A yellow Chartreuse liqueur, herby, sweet and spicy, a bit like delicious alcoholic cough medication that I would be happy to take every day without prescription; it is still made by monks, it's a great digestif and I prefer the yellow to the green, but try them both and tell me what you think.

4. Chateau Suduiraut 1990 Sauternes is another ageing giant, the deep golden colour indicating it is past its best, though a wonderful experience nevertheless, bursting with ripe sweet apricot fruit which recedes faster than I would like but is still hugely enjoyable. A great sweet wine is unlike anything else in life, with few foods up to the rich intensity, and Sauternes from a good year is up at the summit. You will be surprised that anything that sweet can be so massive without being cloying, a real special treat...

I love these wines (and liqueur...) because they make my heart sing, out loud, though I'm not up to composing odes yet, so I'll just keep telling you about things. La la la la la la lala, lala la la la lala!



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