Thursday 28 March 2019

Thank you very much for leading me astray,,,!

There I am trying to stay on the path of righteousness, minding my own business and pretending to be careful with what I eat and, especially, my intake of drink, and YT decides out of the blue to have a birthday. In all honesty he has one every year, much like anyone else, but I am not going to allow that simple fact to detract from his role in my downfall. You see, as the sinister person that YT is, he doesn't stop there, but invites me and a small group of close friends to a celebratory dinner for his birthday not at home, as per usual (regular reader, you know all about that, don't you?), but at a favourite superb restaurant (a post on that to follow soon...). The bonus there is, of course, that YT is allowed to bring his own wines so that we are not only in for a rare treat of drinking stuff ordinary mortals can only dream about, but doomed to overconsumption. And before you start lecturing me, clever clogs, let me see YOU being abstemious when jewels of the wine world are set in from of you; if you are, you are fools and not worth talking to in any case!

We kicked off with a 2007 Sancerre from Cottat. Now many wine guides (and some 'experts'...) will tell you how Sancerre should be young and fresh to  best portray the vibrant aromas typical of the area and Sauvignon Blanc - when you are talking about serious growers in my not so humble opinion this is nonsense, I'm afraid, as their wine is complete and able to age with panache. Our wine was young-looking and not only subtly full of the typical aromas of cat's pee and gooseberries, it was also fresh as anything, stylish and elegant. On the palate this was a vibrant Sancerre, complex and very long, showing the European style that makes New World Sauvignon Blanc seem far too brash and obvious - this was class in a glass.

I'm being quiet about the food that we enjoyed, as there will be a separate post on the restaurant to follow, but YT is a fiend for matching wine to food, far more meticulous and exacting than I could or would ever be, but supremely good at it as well. All you need to know for now, dear reader, is that the wines perfectly complemented and augmented the food presented to us; everything was consumed with gusto!

You know the old saying: if it talks like a duck and quacks like a duck then it's a duck? Well, our second wine was like a Vin Jaune, made exactly in the Vin Jaune style and adhering to all the rules but, alas, made just outside the Vin Jaune Appellation area so not entitled to the name... Well, screw that, this was a wonderful wine, sort of dried apricot essence, no sweetness, long, complex, delightful and full of character, needing no-one's official approval to be wonderful. Not a Vin Jaune, but as good as any V.J., so, so gluggable and old world quaint. This 2002 gem was a last bottle, but I'm keeping the grower's name a secret so you eager beavers don't all rush out and buy his wine, pushing prices up; as a diligent sort of chap, though, I reserve the right to reveal all at a later, more confusing date.

Mas de Daumas Gassac is an amazing property in the south of France, in an area (the Languedoc) that not that long ago was not considered capable of making great wines but was thought of as a bulk wine source and little else. This domaine was created out of nothing by its owners in the 1970's and with vision, good judgement, lots of luck and great advice, has become one of the leading estates of this part of France, if not the world. This is family-owned, passion-driven wine, not your market-led nonsense, and its quality is quite staggering. It may lack the sheer finesse of great Burgundies or Bordeaux but the red 2001we had is a grand wine indeed, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (around 80% give or take) but with a special Languedoc character. Jammier, riper than Bordeaux reds, this is full of sour cherry and strawberry fruit, ripe and complex on nose and palate, explosively expressive yet classy, long and impressive. A great wine created from nothing in a decent but previously 'second rate' area through love, application and patience - wow!

Marc de Bourgogne is rarely anything but special, and in the hands of passionate people it's entrancing. While Fine de Bourgogne has the edge on finesse and, ultimately, can be a class above, the marc can be great, especially when coming from the right 'home' and aged for a while. That tempter YT would, of course, only serve superb aged Marc de Bourgogne 2012 from the hands of Sophie Guillemot-Michel - the daughter of a small, biodynamic domaine in the Maconnais, she has made the distillate side her own and, if this one was anything to go by, she should keep on doing this. Her clean, stylish marc had no hard edges, its hints of caramel and alcohol well balanced, giving us not only a lot of pleasure but allowing us to rap up the meal and enjoy the closing espresso in superb style.

I overindulged by official standards (units of alcohol etc.), of course I did, but I blame YT for putting all that temptation in front of me - how could I resist? Whilst I can feel your sympathy for my ordeal growing by the minute - you are kind, dear reader - please focus on this : I have just had another memorable evening spent with good food, great wines, splendid company - there exists for me no better combination to add texture (he-he!) to my life.

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