Well worth a visit!

The other day a friend proposed to a small group of us (four, actually), all equally impecunious, that we visit a restaurant part owned by a friend of his (in the adjacent photograph the said co-owner Yannis Christopoulos is in the denim-like shirt with his/my friend DH), situated within the main Athens Central Vegetable Produce market. Yanni had the misfortune(ha-ha!) to be present during our visit and could not have been more graceful, more hospitable, kinder.

For those of you unfamiliar with this market, it is built in a style I can only describe as drab (politely expressed as functional) and reminiscent of a run down military camp without the beauty; as a bonus it is situated in an industrial part of town which has evolved, like most of Greece, with little planning, forethought or organisation. I was not looking forward to this place, described as part old-fashioned grocery store and part eatery, stocked with carefully selected produce from all over Greece and beyond, as usually these are smug little places stocked with mediocre 'artisan' products, serve indifferent food and are usually smokey/smelly (both from the kitchen and the patrons puffing away).

This place - The Small Bites of the Market (in Greek : Ta Mezeklikia tis Agoras) - was nothing like that. The premises, despite the warehouse exterior, were simple but tastefully designed, the produce on display was truly well chosen and mostly rarely seen in Athens, the food was not elaborate but with top-notch ingredients it was utterly delicious - and there was not a hint of smelliness despite lots of frying. Admittedly it was not heaving during our visit, as it was an evening during Greek Orthodox Holy Week and at least some people are fasting (we, quite obviously, were not!), but it was a good sign.

I loved both the look and the feel of the place - the stylish simplicity even made me more accepting of the plastic-coated paper table 'cloths', much despised by yours truly both for their tackiness and their environmental impact. Here, in a light tan colour, they suited the mood of the place and, while I still rather they were not used, they at least seemed less offensive. The dark wood of the tables and chairs gave the place an old-fashioned but natural style, lightened by the display shelves and fridges full of cheeses and charcuterie, all intelligently sourced and giving emphasis to quality.

To drink we chose a bottle of Greek tsipouro (like Italian grappa or French marc), not aged and, therefore, clear in colour. In Greece this can be an aperitif, a digestif or, as we chose to do, be consumed before, throughout and after a meal. Our choice, from a producer called Glinavos in Zitsa, Epirus and from a white grape variety called Debina, used for the local white wine) was very clean on the palate, rather delicate and complex in flavour, easy enough to drink and nicely presented. As there was not a drop left - three of us were drinking - it appears a good choice, and the morning after clear head emphatically supports that verdict.

We had a series of shared plates starting with some smoked cheese and bresaola (yes, some imported goods are also present...), both excellent, though I am not ordinarily a fan of smoked cheese. We progressed to a super-tasty ripe cherry tomato salad, lightly olive-oiled (!!!), fried cheese (saganaki), fried eggs with spiced meat (pastourma), highly spiced salami (soutzouki) and fried potatoes, grilled spicy sausages, a smoked ham chop with fried potatoes, meatballs (keftedes) in a tomato and yoghourt sauce and, finally, sheftalies - a traditional Cypriot delicacy. Nothing was less than good, though some were better than others, and everything disappeared so we must all have appreciated what was put before us. Of course we overdid (I certainly did, little pig that I am, see older post on the subject, pace Mervyn!) things, but Yanni helped us finish everything as he kindly joined us for dinner.

Even more kindly he offered us all a couple of chunks of what is known as 'Grocer's halva', one with nuts and one with chocolate, from a top small producer, in order to finish the meal on a sweet note. To that effect he also shared a bottle of sweet wine; overly flowery and with one-dimensional sweetness, it did not win me over, so I was careless and did not write down its details. The nutty halva was exceptional, the chocolatey one good and the wine OK, so overall it was a good way to end what had been a most enjoyable meal. And costs here are, I believe, reasonable but I cannot vouch for that as I never saw a menu - you will have to work hard to top thirty euros a head (we paid far less), unless you are far more extravagant, especially with your drinking, than we were. It is certain that if you get carried away, ordering expensive wines in quantity and eating the priciest ingredients - camel pastourma, anyone? - you can end up paying lots; wouldn't you expect to, though? I am aware that our kind host was generous and perhaps did not charge us for some things, but this is to my mind a reasonable establishment nevertheless!

Greece (or Hellas if you are that way inclined), for all its many faults, truly has some great produce worthy of note on any stage. Alas for many reasons most of it is not seen outside the country; indeed, much of it is hardly appreciated within, despite the proliferation of food programs on television. Strangely, the economic meltdown seems to have induced at least some people to search not only for lower prices but higher quality as regards their food, and hopefully places like this can contribute to this yet still make a profit. With tourism booming it may also showcase Greek food to visitors - the so called 'tourist traps' in Athens are obviously doing well, as they are easily accessible, but perhaps more adventurous visitors will venture to places like this. Here they will be richly rewarded with a quirky, very individual and honest experience - real food, good drink and proper Greek hospitality, well worth seeking out and meriting a detour.

Irrespective of anybody else, I am already planning another visit to the market and these specific delights, sooner rather than later. I found both the fridges to contain stuff that I would like to try and, perhaps, buy for home consumption. And the shelves were a little treasure trove, to which I am inexorably drawn.

As Arnie said: 'I'll be back!'