Saturday 22 June 2019

Life's a beach, especially on Andros, Cyclades, Greece

MG is not a native Android (used here to denote persons whose family hails from the Greek island of Andros) but she has taken to the place like a duck to water for a variety of reasons. You, observant and loyal reader, know about this already, and how beneficial this has been to your scribbler. So when, once again, she offered to provide her kind hospitality at her small holiday flat I leapt at the chance, as the place comes with a major asset as far as I'm concerned - a spare room! This I am allowed to occasionally occupy as a valued guest, there to provide companionship and help about the place; in return I get ferried around to the best beaches, the best restaurants, the best everything. It's an arrangement that has given me many hours of pleasure wandering around this blessed island, at little cost.

Cost, as my observant reader knows only too well, is very important to me at this stage of my life, where money is not plentiful. Value for money, however, has always been a far more important concept for me over the years and is constantly on my mind. Being a relative concept means that sometimes testing it requires the generosity of others, when my limited funds prohibit me from enjoying something, but luckily over the years I have been able to discover many deserving places.

Ten days ago - don't quibble, it may have been twelve or fourteen - MG asked if I was available to spend a few days on Andros and help her set up her flat for summer, shifting furniture around etc. Well, I quickly accepted, what with the Greek summer on the doorstep and the sea cold but ever so inviting, impossible to turn down. And if you don't already know, Andros features some lovely beaches that, depending on the prevailing wind direction, offer thrills aplenty. Off I went, then, to explore, judge and report back to you, trusted - and trusting - reader, for your delectation and appreciation but in no particular order:

1. St. Peter's Beach, Funky Donkey Beach Bar
On possibly the best - possibly the most crowded but certainly the most conveniently located for visitors - sandy beach on the island, this friendly, hospitable Funky Donkey provides excellent sunbeds, shady umbrellas and a good mixture of snacks, coffees and drinks of all kinds, all served with a smile. The staff are helpful and look after all comers, some extremely demanding, yet many come back again and again, year after year.
There are two other beach bars on the same stretch but I find FD the nicest. I love this place and you will too, but perhaps not in mid-August, when everywhere is heaving and you have to queue for an umbrella!
2. Apothikes Beach Bar
At the end of a steep, half-dirt road this tiny beach provides excellent swimming and simple, friendly facilities for days when the northerly winds are blowing. The beach bar burned down recently and had to be rebuilt, so they are still finding their feet. Good music that occasionally becomes loud, lifts the mood and leads to a lively atmosphere and dancing.
Despite the daunting access road it is worth another look, with good, invigorating swimming, but may be a bit too crowded for my taste in August.
3. Vitali beach and Kampos Beach Bar
Twice in the past I have tried to get to Vitali beach and failed, once actually reaching the place but finding it bursting with visitors and having to turn back, particularly unpleasant as the trek there is long and in places difficult; the other was last year, when illness stopped me from joining the group heading there. This time we managed it and, surprisingly, it was worth it. A small beach with pebbles (many tiny, others less so) nestles between two rocky hills and leads to splendid crystal clear waters, a concert of different hues of blue. Protected from most extremes of weather it gets deep quickly, so perhaps very young children may feel intimidated, but it provides superb swimming and diving for almost everyone else.
Two beach bars compete for your attention here. We chose the one that we preferred the look of (Kampos Beach Bar) and found it friendly, reasonably priced and with a good (great?) selection of food and drink. Vitali beach can get overcrowded during busy periods, especially when southerly winds foul up the beaches on the other side of the island. A must-see, worth the trouble getting there.
4. Ateni Beach Bar
Ateni is another beach that hates northerly winds but is enchanting when winds are becalmed or southerlies. The beach bar here is a personal favourite, as the family that run it are hugely passionate about providing the best in food, drink and service, which they achieve by constant effort and the support of their staff. Their sandwiches and salads are first-rate, drinks too, and their attitude and willingness to improve a joy, making me long for my next visit, especially as their prices are not unenticing. Set at the left corner of a long, curving bay you have the illusion of being on a secluded beach in the middle of nowhere, but with all the comforts of an organised place.
This is a personal favourite, despite the fact that it's at the end of a long but not difficult drive, for the feeling of being away from it all that I get there, the great swimming, the good food, the endearing and satisfying hospitality. My comprehensive report will follow at some point soon, so long as you people - my faithful readers - promise not to all rush down there at once and crowd me out.

MG, if you are listening, my readers and I are waiting for the next invitation, more beaches, more sun and fun.










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