The Temptress of Maida Vale

Last night I was fortunate to be accompanied by my friend NL to make my long-promised evening visit to the small, quirky, bohemian restaurant that I had so far only visited in its morning guise as a cafe. The visit exceeded all expectations in culinary terms, but left me feeling sad at the lack of appreciation that spectacularly good cooking can sometimes face purely because it's sited in, perhaps, the wrong area and operating in an individual fashion.

First things first: the place is aptly named Les Douceurs de la Tentation (the Pleasures of Temptation) and it is situated 20 yards from where Elgin Avenue begins, by the Harrow road. It is tiny, simple, and operates a bookings-only policy in the evenings because it is a one-woman show by the chef-patron, with only occasional help from a waiter when necessary. She is a little dynamo of energy and inventiveness, genial and kind, constantly looking to provide the best experience for her customers, but also cooking with firm authority and style.

The cooking is spectacularly good at all levels (her croissants, sandwiches and brunch plates are beautifully executed also, as mentioned in my original post), with clear taste matches and intelligent plays on texture, at least on everything I tried last night. The portions are generous but not massive, the plates arrive looking like real food,  not art on a plate (but still look great!), the French flair of the chef evident but not excessive - there is style here, yes, but plenty of substance too!

The restaurant is currently unlicensed so diners can bring their own wine (there is a small per person charge), enabling serious quality drinking for those that way inclined, though there is a licence application currently weaving its way through the system which may change all that. In a way a pity, this may allow this tiny place to boost its take and profitability, and survive.

We started with a pair of courses from the sea, I with scallops (with black pudding and peas) and my friend with a ravioli of lobster dish. Both were flavoursome, subtly multi-dimensional in taste and texture, really delicious and a good match for our white wine, currently on offer at half-price - Vasse Felix SemSauv 2013, juicy papaya and citrus fruit, mature, complex and luscious.

Our main courses were, if anything, more impressive than the starters. My friend had the beef medallions cooked medium, with a red wine reduction sauce; the dish was satisfactory in every way, tasty and comforting. I had supreme of chicken with red peppers and chorizo on a tomato base, rich and bursting with flavour, the firm texture of the white chicken meat contrasting with the soft red peppers and the spiciness of the chorizo adding another dimension. Both dishes came with new potatoes, sweet and tasty, and were utterly satisfying and delicious. The red wine, a claret from 2015 (Baron des Tours, Medoc) was a decent non-clashing accompaniment, but unremarkable and way too young for my liking. We did not touch the third bottle!

And then we had dessert, possibly the best creme brûlée I have ever had, a perfect end to a lovely meal and so good that NL had to have a second one. I showed my renowned strength of character (ha-ha!) and only had the one...

I was devastated to observe that we were the only customers on a Saturday night in this tiny but delightful place, so I fear for its future. If you live in London and are in any way interested in good food and wine make tracks to Les Douceurs swiftly, for places like that are few and far between, so removed from the designer-led atmosphere of smart, fashionable places; they are fuelled by the passion of their individualistic proprietors and make the gastronomic world a better place. They provide pleasure in abundance and deserve to survive, and thrive.

Incidentally I am far from being the only nor, indeed,  the first person to be seduced by its charms. TripAdvisor is full of rave reviews from people who have enjoyed eating there, but obviously not enough of us visit regularly enough to enable it to be as successful as it deserves. This is quality food cooked with skill, character  and passion, served in an unpretentious manner - what's not to like? Go there, go there immediately - check their website for opening times and booking procedure, necessary as they cannot accommodate walk-ins - and you will not be disappointed; you can thank me later.