Exercise - a Panacea within our reach? (introduction)

The other day I went to a talk by a physiotherapist, ostensibly concerning lower back pain but in reality largely covering the perils of inactivity and how it affects our body in general and our lower back in particular. It is amazing to hear what can go wrong from simply failing to move regularly, and how serious some of the consequences can be, especially when the speaker is not trying to sell you anything.

Our life has become more and more sedentary, with technology often anchoring us to a workspace for most of the day so that we barely move other than to satisfy our basic needs; we often also work out the easiest way of doing that, so as to require minimum physical exertion. When this is allied to our increasing use of labour-saving devices in every aspect of our everyday lives you can see we are very much 'homo inactivus'.

There is another factor, however, complicating this seemingly simple equation: It is, I believe, a fact that more of us are exercising today than ever before, yet there are also more of us suffering either from obesity or from lifestyle-dependent diseases like type 2 diabetes. Our speaker, a young, slim man, made it abundantly clear that structured exercise - such as in a gym - is only part of the answer, that we should tweak our day to day existence to move more and so improve our health. Most of the things we need to do are simple, straightforward and surprisingly effective.

Exercise in all its forms, structured or unstructured, should be about improving our quality of life by boosting our fitness, and so our health. The path we choose - and hence the results - is down to us, our willpower and what we want to achieve; it does not have to involve anything extreme, nor hardship, and we must understand accept that results come in time and in small measures.

As we are constantly urged to be more active, we are also tempted to consume more and more that is fattening, unhealthy or unnatural. Despite the popularity of cooking shows on television and the plentiful availability of good raw materials, many of us regard cooking fresh food as a bit of a waste of time, unproductive, and prefer ready, easy solutions. This has obvious, disastrous results not only for physical health (due to the poor quality or nutritional value of what we consume) but also to our psychological state as eating and relaxing as part of a group (family/peers/friends), that most civilising and civilised activity, is lost to solitary eating in front of the computer.

Yes, we live longer than ever before. It is my belief that we should be looking to improve the quality of this at the same time. Please allow me to return to this subject shortly in order to discuss it in more detail.

London : The Pain and the Glory

My love affair with London is long-standing and passionate, far stronger than any relationship I've had with the opposite sex, much as I've adored women throughout my life. It has survived highs and lows, both personal and general; it has recently been sorely tested again by events rocking the capital one way or the other. Terrorists have tried - and failed miserably - to spread alarm and unhappiness to the populace of our great city, cowardly killing and maiming in the name, ostensibly, of some religious belief. Now a massive fire has devastated a tower block, killing many (we are not sure of the number yet) and traumatising all of Britain, such was the severity of the blaze. London under attack from the gods, man or both?

Yet these events have had the opposite effect on Londoners than people would have predicted. Yes, there is fury that terrorists can strike in the city we love, maiming and killing. Yes, there is anger that a simple fire can consume a building in such a short period of time, making escape for residents next to impossible. Londoners of course want answers, and their city to be safer.

But we have not succumbed to despair and negativity. Even the politicians, lowest of the low in many peoples' books - have refrained from making much political capital out of the tragedies. And it is ordinary Londoners who have shown the true glory of this city, one which disregards all distinctions, rushing in to help in any way possible. Heartbreaking and heartwarming at the same time, the latest tragedies bring London together and make all Londoners sadder yet prouder, more determined to improve their city and, hopefully, eliminate tragedies in the future.

To talk of the heroism of the emergency services is to say things that have been said many times before, but these must be repeated time and again so these amazing people receive the recognition and protection that they deserve. They have shown that they are always there in our hour of need and it is society's duty to cherish and reward them adequately so that they can continue to do so. I have always been in awe of the selflessness of the emergency services and feel that now is the time to draw a line on financial cutbacks where they are concerned. London's finest must not have their life made any harder.

It is very difficult, almost impossible actually, to restrict the movement of potential criminals with terrorist intentions in a truly free country, and this freedom is cherished nowhere more so than in London. We know of the problem posed by these rogues (who pretend to be ideologues) but continue to go about our daily business as usual, wary but unfazed and fully cognisant of the risks of our open, accepting society. This is our city, our freedom, not to be diminished or compromised by any Tom, Dick or Harry.

That we love London does not mean that we think it's perfect; the tragedy of the Grenfell Tower fire is indeed proof that it is not. All of us must work to put things right so things like that cannot happen again, nor other horrible things. Let us pressure government, local and central and of whatever colour. Let us try and make our city as close to perfect as possible for all Londoners, so others can fall in love with it also. Much as I did over all those years

ago.

London is beautiful and welcoming but can have an ugly and brutal side - it is, after all a mega-city, home to disparate millions. It also has a big heart, though, a very big heart that events, throughout history, have been unable to crush. And while I cannot vouch for Londoners of the distant past, most of the people I have met over the many years of living here have been decent, caring and considerate, ready to help those in need.

The world will have seen this too after the latest tragedies, as we have had to cope with events in the full glare of the media. I hope that they will understand that we feel the pain, deep inside, because we love our city and those we share it with. I hope that they have also noticed the pride in the community, in humanity, in our city.

Is it any wonder that the most successful beer brewed in London is called London Pride? Or that it is one of my all-time favourites?

St. Peter's donkey

I am not certain if Saint Peter had a donkey and, if so, what kind it was; my knowledge of donkeys is limited, my interest in them also. It pains me very little to admit that my knowledge of Saint Peter - or any other saint for that matter - is pretty sketchy too but, in any case, the donkey I am referring to is not alive, at least not in any hee-hawing sense, though it has plenty of life in it... It is, in many ways, a Funky Donkey.

This Funky Donkey resides on Andros, one of the largest islands of the Cyclades, that group of islands in the Aegean Sea famous for being arid and full of little white houses glittering in the sun. Traditionally Andros has neither, but is water rich, verdant and with a neoclassical architectural heritage (now being eroded by said white constructions), so does not feature in the typical cycladic postcard. This is a wealthy island, mainly from shipping and trading, with its own significant production of fruit and veg, a livestock industry and even its own bottled mineral water - so it is an unlikely tourist hotspot. But it is blessed with some stunning scenery, including excellent beaches, one of which is called St. Peter's Beach.

Did St. Peter himself ever visit Andros and spend time on her beaches? Did he prance around in his bathing costume, sunning himself while preaching to people he hoped to convert? I fancy not, but it is irrelevant anyway, as the name exists and persists, derived it seems from a ruined edifice called St. Peter's Tower, which is on the hill behind the beach; I am informed that this was probably a signal beacon tower built in the 3rd or 4th century BC, part of an elaborate inter-island warning system. Why that, or the nearby village,  acquired the name of the saint who ended up in Rome I don't know, and in the immortal words of Rhett Butler 'Frankly my dear, I don't give a ----' (you can insert your own variation, should you wish, the original is damn...).

Our Funky Donkey then is a beach bar, one of three along the length of St. Peter's beach, and the last on your right hand side as you leave Gavrion, the main port of the island, to head to Chora and most everywhere else on the island. All three enjoy access to the same clear (most of the time, anyway) waters and offer seemingly similar services, including beach umbrellas, sun loungers and a bar providing refreshments and snacks. A quick look may leave you wondering why I choose to write about one of the three, as they all appear to be similar... bear with me!

The difference, as with most things in life, is in the detail, something you will notice should you be fortunate enough to spend leisure time on the island and try these places. The proprietor of the Donkey, Stelios Mamais, is keen that his customers enjoy the best possible service for their money, so has excellent quality sun loungers (sturdy and comfortable), better than anything else on the island, or most islands for that matter. These not only give the customers pleasure, but provide him with years and years of loyal service, so were well worth the investment. An investment that was a leap of faith on his part as, until this year when he was granted a 3-year deal, his concession had always been on a year by year basis making all investment a risk. Stelios himself - and why are they all called Stelios?? - is a quiet man, hiding behind the bar and overseeing all activity.

A couple of years ago I was able to take an extended break on Andros, staying in a small holiday apartment belonging to a friend, and took full advantage of the facilities provided by said Funky Donkey, including ice-cold beer and light snacks. I reserved my greatest appreciation for the complimentary bottle of water they included with the umbrella/sun lounger rental, a nice touch and so necessary during hot Greek summer days, but especially for their kindness and hospitality, which was not proportional to the size of the bill you ran up.

This isn't some slick corporate setup, with marketing budgets and an impersonal feel, nor is it a luxurious establishment of the kind found on the island of Mykonos, full of bells and whistles. Nobody splashes champagne about, it isn't a showy kind of place. Rather, this is a local small business, run by local people and contributing directly to the local economy. It's imperfect, quirky, put together by the owners and not a design team; it offers decent service, value for money and is struggles to make a living. But it deserves to do well, as Stelios stubbornly continues to improve his little domaine; with security of tenure for three years he should be able to do much more than before, as he's always looking for new ideas and ways to improve.

If your idea of a good holiday is clubbing all night and sleeping all day, then Andros is not for you and the Funky Donkey will leave you cold. In fact, most of the Greek islands don't cater for you, though there are one or two that do, heaven help them. Andros is about the simple beauty of the place, which can be seen both on foot/bus and by car/motorbike, the good beaches (organised like our funky friend, or remote and bare where you need to carry your own refreshments and shade) with the clear, cool waters and some excellent if simple food in traditional restaurants all over. You will not be bumping into the jet set here - there is, after all, no airport on the island - and most of the glamorous stuff happens in the big houses of Chora belonging to the shipping families, tucked away on the other side of the island. The rest is simple and largely welcoming, easy to get to from Athens airport (a short boat ride away) and with something to offer for most of the year.

The Funky Donkey lives during the summer, however, appearing every year around the end of May and disappearing almost without trace before the end of September, as the summer slowly winds down and its disciples return to whence they came, making its presence unnecessary. It's a good little Donkey, really, though I'll leave the funkiness rating up to you; as no bolt of lightning has destroyed it so far I can only assume St. Peter approves its presence on his beach too, maybe almost as much as I do.

United Europe - Dreams or Delusions? (a continuation)

By now you are all bored with my travels, my eating, my drinking habits and all those photographs - often shaken, never stirred! Today I decided to return to a subject close to my heart which contains no photographs, though many images may emerge from my words... ha-ha! This is my second rambling rant on the subject, but not my last, of that you can be certain. Enjoy or suffer, depending on your viewpoint.

One man's terms are another's punishment, it seems, as emotions concerning the, some are convinced shaky, future of the European Union and Britain's place within/out it (Brexit etc.) run riot. Boris Johnson, surely a caricature as a foreign secretary, continues to annoy all and sundry, while at the same time entertaining them with his wit, ridiculous hairstyle and complete lack of scruples. And people everywhere are left wondering what The Donald can achieve as President of the USA (aka the world's most powerful man) if he continues to react to everything like an affronted, annoyed, spoiled 8 year old.

Europe has been, or has considered itself to be, at the centre of our world's events for a very long time. In ancient times this was, of course, understandable, as our knowledge of the rest of the world was limited and many a tiny nation naively considered themselves to be hugely important. In today's world, where we have a clearer image of others geographically, culturally, even racially, can this image of importance sustain itself? Is Old Lady Europe anything other than a has been, living on past glories?

Well, no, it isn't. Europe was, perhaps, never quite the world force it saw itself as, even when powers such as Britain, France or Spain ruled over large portions of the globe, as there was little 'European' consciousness - everyone thought of themselves as part of their nation states/empires. Their influence on life across the globe was relatively short-lived and transient by great empire standards, was largely economic in nature, and revolving around the pursuit of great riches to be discovered and appropriated.

Not content with plundering anything possible around the globe or perhaps as a result of this, Europeans developed an inward-looking mentality of superiority, largely expressed through ideas of racial (white) dominance. There was a sense of cultural supremacy, largely self-promoted and encouraged, yet often based on ignorance and partly promoted by the church. Was it deserved? Force of arms seemed to suggest it were so. Still, from the end of the 18th century Europe played a major role in scientific discoveries, technological progress etc., matched only by the USA in the 20th century and beyond. Yet largely there was little feeling of being European, being one group of people from which all sprang, as witnessed by the countless local and the two great wars eventually known as World Wars I and II.

The 'European Ideal' is a result of the immense, largely needless, bloodshed that occurred from WWI up to and including WWII and its aftermath, though since further developed by the politicians involved; any weaknesses lie not with the idea of a United Europe (not a Unites States of Europe) but with the way this has been executed and run. The fact that there has not been a major war on European soil for a very long time is the most easy to spot result of Europeanism, and one for which we should all be grateful. If we think about it carefully there is much to unite us, a disparate but connected bunch of people.

Our Europe (make no mistake, it is OUR Europe) is a funny, small, densely populated part of the world supporting manufacturing industry, agriculture and services to a very high, if varying, degree, depending on where you choose to look. It boasts fine architecture going back hundreds if not thousands of years, ancient universities, magnificent natural scenery, intertwined civilisations. It is the birthplace of Democracy and where it has developed the most, from its inception in the city-state of Athens in ancient Greece to the complex forms found today, giving all a voice. In many ways a protector of free thought and speech despite a less than democratic history, this Europe is not one thing but many joined together, co-existing, feeding off each other. Civilisation is making better progress in Europe, promoting fairness and humanity, than most anywhere else in the world today.

Travelling to other parts of the world I am always struck by how different and unusual Europe is by comparison: small, individual, independent (and bloody)-minded, full of local prejudice and contradictions. Perhaps bizarrely, my belief is that this makes us richer not poorer, stronger not weaker; unity is to our benefit as a whole, a sum total, inclusive despite our differences. Wherever I am in the world I always feel that, ultimately, culturally I am a European.

I have long believed that the politicians have pushed the European vision further and faster than their remit, further than people were ready, willing or able to accept; this was, to my mind, partly for personal gain (not necessarily monetary, think of history...) and partly because the world changed with the collapse of the Soviet Union, presenting them with new challenges and/or opportunities. This has resulted in a hastily enlarged, unbalanced entity which the attempt at monetary union has further undermined through ignorance and certainty of purpose. This, together with the refugee crisis, has brought the European system's weaknesses  to the fore, to the point that all it took was one world economic blip (Lehman Brothers etc.) to unsettle the whole edifice, bringing bits crashing to the ground (Greece and the Southern countries in general - this will be the subject of a different post).

We are now faced with fundamental questions about the future. Should the EU in its present form be scrapped? Is the Euro a liability? Is the whole European concept out of control and out of place in this modern world? And if it is to change to survive, who will initiate the change and fight for it to be put into effect?

My view is that there is a lot of work to be done to get the 'European Ideal' back on track, and for that we need politicians with determination and a distinct lack of personal hunger, for money or short-term glory. The administration should be better balanced and able to live more modestly and  productively, for the good of the people it purports to represent. It can - and should be - done, for otherwise the future will be far less rosy. We are, after all, talking about economic compromises, financial give and take, the material world; it seems we have forgotten what happens to our material world during wars, the pain, the suffering.

Would you like to leave your children the legacy of a disunited Europe and more World Wars, with millions dying needlessly for grandiose ideas of unworthy leaders? All wars, however noble - and that depends on your point of view, surely - their cause, bring about huge suffering and in my view should, if at all possible, be avoided.

I would like to write further on this, and perhaps try to be more specific about how the EU can best achieve its goals and continue to play a part in this world of ours. This is becoming more important by the minute especially as the US appears to be, courtesy of its President, ready to move away from the unity fostered in the past and willing to abdicate its 'leader of the free world' position.

Osteria Al Carro Armato, Verona

As I've said before, Verona is full of places to eat and drink, for all tastes and wallets. There are superb places at all cost levels, simple pizzerias, gastronomic temples, tourist traps, everything really that your little hungry heart desires. The food is generally decent, the wine selection good and most places won't break the bank; this is essential for me, because, as regular readers of my nonsense know, my bank is already on its knees, if not already broken!

So these days I shun the expensive places, no matter how good they are, and am, alas, unable to pose in the more pretentious ones. My tastes, therefore, are concentrated on the simple but good, the individual, independent, inexpensive, interesting and human. And the place you are imminently to read about combines these qualities admirably, but is so much more.

In your wanderings around Verona's 'Centro Storico' (old town) you will doubtless want to see important things like Juliette's balcony and other interesting (ha-ha) sights. Around the corner from that, the beautiful Piazza delle Erbe is a busy place with smart caffes (italian spelling...), wine bars, a rather tacky market and loads of tourists, but two blocks up the tourist flow dwindles and the little lanes are relatively quiet. In one of these, and if you know where it is, can be found a little osteria well worth discovering, dispensing hospitality to all and sundry.

The Osteria Al Carro Armato, to give it its full name, is just a gorgeous place to have a nice glass (bottle? bottles???) of wine and/or a bite to eat. You don't go there for the designer surroundings or trendy environment - it has changed hardly at all in the 20+ years that I have known it - nor to people-watch (although there are regularly notable local personages to be seen if you are that way inclined) for it is not that kind of place; rather, you go for the warm welcome, the civilised, congenial atmosphere, to eat, drink and relax.

There are many places to go to in Verona, as befits a tourist town, and many surpass the C.A. in luxury/variety/views/trendiness; not one surpasses it for respect and affection to the customer. If I were fortunate enough to live in Verona I would be in there as often as possible, a regular, for it is that kind of rare, loving place. It belongs to no chain, conforms to no stereotype, is nothing but itself - a temple (very simple, plain almost) to hospitality.

Don't go there for elaborate cooking or outrageously rare (and expensive!) bottles of wine, as Verona has other places for that. Go there for the genuine hospitality that the wonderful proprietor Anna-Lisa (she is the small lady in the glasses and the warm, shy smile) and her staff show to everyone who crosses the threshold, whether the place is busy or relaxed.

The menu is relatively simple and the food mainly regional in style. Everything is freshly prepared and presented in the same style as the C.A. itself, without pretension and fuss. The surroundings are minimalist and not for those seeking comfortable armchairs and starched tablecloths - this is an osteria and for those you go to a ristorante and pay accordingly! To explain this, I had a plate of mushrooms and polenta with Asiago cheese, warm, local, tasty and satisfying; there are also cold plates small and large, pasta and meat dishes, as well as selections of cheese and charcuterie. Do not expect 101 choices, though, keep it simple and be assured that whatever you choose will have been checked out thoroughly and approved by the proprietor herself.

The wine list is also relatively simple and is not hugely long, but contains many interesting bottles worth trying, local or otherwise; it is compiled with knowledge, affection for the product and a desire to offer the customer choice and value for money. We had some nice - and interestingly different - bottles, as you will see from the photographs, the first of which (Durello by Sandro de Bruno) is apparently now a curiosity; the grower has either stopped or is about to stop making it, an individual aged white with too much personality for today's more stereotyped consumer and, therefore, difficult to sell. Its golden colour hints at the age, the nose and full taste confirm its age, quality and attitude - I found it delicious.
The reds were both local, made by a producer called Fondo Prognoi (of Tinazzi Laura), with a heavy emphasis on responsible agriculture, respect for the environment and so merit the certification of 'Biodiversity Friend'. One of the wines, Quedius, is a simple Valpolicella DOC in the lighter, more authentic style that I love and that is, of course, less fashionable today when the emphasis is on heft and rampant fruit. Instead, good plain  Valpol is fresh red fruit in a glass, winningly subtle and complex, at first glance simple but not really, look again. Not a great wine, no, but at its best a very enjoyable, characterful glass indeed. The second red wine, Lichene (Lichen!), a mixture of merlot and croatina (a red grape variety I had not come across before), was indeed heftier (thankfully not in alcohol terms) but to my mind less interesting than the Valpolicella, though perfectly competent and tasty; perhaps it needs a bit of time to settle in the bottle?

Did I have a tiny bit of Grappa at the end of the evening? Well, I believe I did, as both the setting and the company seemed to require it. The tiramisu I had with it was just to keep a bit of a balance of tastes and flavours, and to be able to report on its quality, which was pretty good... I know, I know, any excuse to enjoy myself, but believe me I need to in these sad, straightened, times.

Will I go back to the Caro Armato? So long as Anna-Lisa is there, with her kind smile and her warm welcome I will keep going back whenever possible. As Michael, Patricia and Stanley are regulars there I will always try to go with them, for their presence makes it even more special.

If you are going to Verona, I would urge you to visit them, otherwise look them up on the web to get a better feel for the place. And write in and tell me of your experience, maybe?

Go on, you know you want to...

Verona, Northern Italy

This impoverished little traveller had to travel to one of his favourite places the other day, after a long time, to support a friend (Jen, widow of my late friend Nick - see earlier post, but then you know them by heart by now, do you not) and to see other friends who live there and at whose wedding celebrations many years ago Nick, Jen and I met and bonded in lifelong friendship. The place is Verona in the Veneto region of northern Italy, a lovely city with a gorgeous historical centre, beautiful buildings and pleasant pizzerias, restaurants and wine bars; anyone who's read my scribblings would realise it's the perfect place for someone like me!

The friends there, Michael, Patricia and their dog Stanley, used to put me up on their sofa bed when I used to visit Verona in the past, and a most pleasant time was had by all. Alas Jen was occupying the sofa bed at MPS Mansions this time, so I was shunted off to a lovely - and thankfully inexpensive - guest house about 15 minutes walk away where, being the only resident at the time, I had lots of peace and quiet and a very civilised, relaxed base. I spent four nights there, catching up with both the friends and Verona, and enjoyed myself immensely. It would be fair to say that the excellent wine consumed during the stay, either at MPS (you work it out...!) Mansions or at restaurants, helped in that respect.

Verona city centre is an astoundingly beautiful old town full of glorious buildings, narrow cobbled lanes and, of course, visitors; it is fully equipped to handle tourists in their droves, which is just as well, but it is not all tourist tat and rip-off places. In fact, unless you are looking for sophisticated Michelin guide grub, most restaurants are surprisingly reasonable in both quality and price of both food and wine. Should you be lucky enough to visit you are advised to either stay in a decent hotel in the centre (if your budget can stand it) and be right in the heart of things, or do as I did and stay in a good B&B a short bus ride or a slightly longer walk from the centre. This is a place where walking is they key to unlocking the beauty nestling at every street corner, and finding all the little cafes and bars hidden away where you least expect them.

The beauty here is abundant but not over-ostentatious, often more to do with symmetry and proportion, and is everywhere in the old town with few exceptions. Stepping away from the centre is another matter, however, with plenty of dull, indifferent - and sometimes downright ugly - post-war apartment buildings dominating. There was even an outrageously horrid concrete bunker-type building that I initially felt must be a military installation but which turned out to be a school, and I photographed it for your delectation. It sits there, drab and menacing, next to a beautifully decorated old villa which is elegant as can be... go figure!

The countryside near Verona is also worth a mention, with many interesting places worth seeing such as wine estates, lovely lakes, castles; it is an area to explore and savour, taking your time. As a car in Verona old town is about as useful as a pedalo I would recommend hiring one for a day or two to wander and sightsee, or, if you have arrived in your own car, securing a safe parking spot and limiting car use for your out of town escapades. Unfortunately during this visit we were short of time and unable to venture further out, even to re-visit the Serego Alighieri estate where Michael used to work a long time ago. This is a working estate producing things like olive oil, wine, rice etc., all of good or excellent quality, and belongs to the descendants of Dante; they also run a small luxury B&B called Foresteria, which will give any guest a feel for life in the Valpolicella countryside.

Walking everywhere is to me the defining activity in Verona, and it gives me the greatest pleasure whether strolling or going quickly from a to b. It will allow you too to soak in the atmosphere of the old town, to see hidden buildings with lovely interior courtyards, to discover enticing cafes and wine bars, to feel part of this magical city and be carried away in its feel of longevity, of living history. Wherever you turn you are reminded of the past, yet this is not some mausoleum but a vibrant, living city with lots of modern amenities.

Verona may be beautiful but it is not perfect - it is both sophisticated and provincial, relaxed and strangely uptight. The river Adige surrounds the old town and protects it from the mediocrity of the suburbs, giving it character but also plentiful humidity, which in the height of summer can be unpleasant. And the hordes of marauding tourists - yes, they include me and you... - can at times be unpleasant, even overwhelming. The Veronese too can sometimes be a bit snooty and annoying (especially if they are fed up of bumping into tourists everywhere), though thankfully this is either relatively rare or I have been extremely fortunate. But do avoid coming here when there is a fair (like VinItaly) on, as the city becomes overstretched and overcrowded to the nth degree.

All in all though, this is a place worth visiting time and again, to relax and sink gently into an illusion of the past mixed with modern comfort, to eat and drink and stroll and saunter and feel at home, at least temporarily, in this beautiful, beautiful place. It is a short train ride away from Venice, and a slightly longer one from Milan, so there's no excuse, none.

Greek Wine Tasting - more detail

I tasted quite a few wines, though obviously not everything on show as time and stamina imposed certain limitations. I omitted wines that I knew well, irrespective of quality, and wines that did not inspire me with their presentation, or whose basic proposition I felt held no interest for international buyers. And then I omitted some more as I ran out of steam...

Santorini white wines are now stars on the international stage, as mentioned in my last piece, so I was keen to try as many as possible. The growers showing 2016 were proven correct, despite its youth and recent bottling, as it is shaping up to be a stunning vintage with near perfect balance. 2015 by comparison is a bit clumsier, but still very fine indeed. By and large Santorini whites are far better unoaked, letting the terroir and raw material do the talking; oak seems to diminish the local taste while at the same time making them bigger, chunkier. I tasted the following:

a. Sigalas 2015 Santorini - Understated white peach nose, same and floral on palate, long but somehow hollow.
b. Thalassitis 2016 Santorini - Slightly burnt rubber, white fruit and alcohol on nose, bit closed on palate, finishes sharp and green, needs to settle.
c. Hatzidakis 2016 Santorini - Very understated and elegant nose, slightly bitter palate, bone dry and long.
d. Argyros 2016 Assyrtiko - Despite youth exuberant nose and palate, long and clean, good.
e. Argyros 2015 Assyrtiko - Exuberant floral nose, spicy and complex, creamy white fruit on palate, very long, superb stuff to drink now or keep, drink with or without food.
f. Gavalas 2015 Santorini - Pear and alcohol nose (almost like Poire Williams...), pear on palate, dry with a hint of sweetness, long but something missing...?
g. Hatzidakis Cuvee 15 Santorini 2015 - Very subtle mirabelle nose and palate, multi-layered, complex, dry and very very long, excellent now but I feel will improve with a bit of age.

h. Hatzidakis Louros 2013 barrel-fermented Assyrtiko - Lots of oak and white fruit on nose, round woody palate with fruit, long and complex, good.
i. Hatzidakis Nykteri 2014 - First impression=overoaked, wrong. In fact oaked but balanced, needs time and food, oak dominates currently, long, keep, observe changes and drink in a year or more?

Incidentally, a lot of fuss is made over some reds from the Cyclades, including Santorini, using the Mavrotragano (black & crisp) variety. I tasted none this time, as to my mind they fall into the 'interesting' category of things that you enjoy trying but would not regularly select for pleasure, and they are quite expensive, though their cost is fully justified by the difficult conditions and low yields of these vineyards. I did not taste any this year but hereby promise to do a Mavrotragano report in the not too distant future, and all will be revealed, so be patient.

Savatiano, as previously mentioned - you were paying attention, were you not? - is my tip for future stardom in Greek white wine, and I tasted (all from the Attica region, near Athens):
a. Perihelion-Domaine Evinos 2016 - Understated herby nose, green mirabelle on palate, long, a decent glug.
They also showed an Assyrtiko 2015 - Typical Assyrtiko nose, good dry palate, long-ish and clean.
b. Aoton Winery 2015 - Aromatic, slightly toasted nuts/burnt rubber on nose and palate, exuberant and long, from a new, potentially exciting producer.
Aoton's Roditis 2015 (another grape variety, more flowery) - Low-key perfumed nose, unripe white peach on palate, long and clean.
c. Papagiannakos Savatiano 2016 - Understated typical nose, dry white peaches on palate, long and typical, young. Papagiannakos have an excellent biodynamic winery not far from Athens airport and a good selection of wines, including a Retsina; a place well worth visiting for any wine enthusiast spending time at or near Athens.

Part of the problem is that everyone is trying to find interesting, different grape varieties for their new

wine, trying to appeal to the local individuality factor. This is positive in that it rescues grape varieties from extinction and makes for some very characterful wines indeed; the whole Portuguese tasting a couple of weeks ago was based on how different the wines are. Unfortunately on occasion the result may be individual and unusual but not wonderfully appealing to drink, so the whole thing can be counterproductive, especially as tastes have changed since the distant past and wines that our ancestors would have loved may now be considered practically undrinkable! So beware, winemaker: me too is commercial but boring, too peculiar and your product may be extremely difficult to sell. Your skill lies in finding the balance that's right for your product/area/grape variety/market, and with that comes success. Remember that ultimately if your wine does not sell you will eventually go out of business, even if you make 'authentic ancient wine' just like Pericles (or whoever...) used to sup.

There are two main traditional red wine areas in Greece are far apart from each other and use different local grape varieties: Nemea is situated quite a way south in the Northern Peloponnese near the ancient town of that name, using the variety Agiorgitiko (St. George's), whereas Naoussa is in northern Greece, in the central part of the Macedonia area, province of Imathia, and uses the Xinomavro (Sour and Black) grape. Nemea at its best is robust, long-lived with complex stewed red fruit, juicy and long on the palate, and responds well to subtle oaking; cheap Nemea is all crude jammy fruit, easy to drink, which is why a lot of it ends up as house wine (jug wine, really) in many restaurants. Naoussa on the other hand can make ethereal, complex, subtly acidic and tannic wines, lighter in colour but full of taste and ideal with roast meats. There is little, if any, cheap Naoussa on the market.

As Xinomavro is a personal favourite - in a strange way it often reminds me of Pinot Noir - I tasted several wines (but many more remained untasted, sorry!), including some from the Boutari company, once the leading light in the area, then over-commercialised, trying to change and making a comeback, as well as some independent growers: 1. Boutari Naoussa 2014 is the basic red wine of the lineout, with a lively colour, a round untypical nose, well-made if untypical and in a modern style not to my personal taste. 2. Grande Reserve 2010 is rather fuller and also  untypical these days, dark colour (for Naoussa), with a big, rich Xynomavro nose, lots of fruit on the palate, young and vibrant, a far cry from the over-sold beast it had become in the distant past, when this supposed family reserve cuvee was produced in quantities of over 400,000 bottles. At under £10 pounds retail this is a relative bargain. 3. Boutari Legacy 1879 of the 2007 vintage is a beast of a Xynomavro, with a deep, almost black colour, oaky creamy damson fruit nose, BIG red fruit on palate, luscious/juicy/untypical, still tannic and long - I would like to taste this again in say 5 and 10 years time to see how it develops, as at present I find it overproduced and overpowering. 4. Diamantakos 2012 Naoussa was light in colour with a strawberry nose, delicate, light, long on palate. 5. Diamantakos 2013 Naoussa had better colour, typical subtle nose and was more complex but still delicate. 6. Domaine Karydas 2013 had a bricky red colour, raspberry nose, delicately complex on the palate. 7. Domaine Foundi Naoussa 2011 had very light, bricky Xynomavro colour, restrained strawberry nose and palate. 8. Estate Foundi 2008 was bricky red, slightly cloudy, slightly oxidised sweet nose, livelier palate desperate for food to show its true worth. 9. Thymiopoulos Naoussa 2014 had a light, typical colour, gorgeous clean strawberry nose and palate, no obvious tannin, very drinkable. 10. Earth & Sky by Thymiopoulos is the undisputed star of the area, and the 2015 had a light, typical colour, complex strawberry nose, amazing multi-layered palate of strawberries, roses, prunes... Impressive but very gluggable stuff!

Avgoustiatis is another Greek variety from the Western Peloponnese which has started to appear more and more, making big, richly coloured red wines with good fruit. I have only ever tasted them young, so have no view on how they age, but they certainly provide good juicy current drinking stuff. Mercouri, near Olympia, make a good example, but others (either local to Olympia like Ktima Brintziki or far away - in Samos, Domaine Vakakis) are making Avgoustiatis wines, so we should expect to see better quality and a variety of styles soon. 

Mercouri are an enterprising estate whose wines I first tasted over 20 years ago, and they seem incapable of making duff wine. Not only do they have an excellent standard lineup of whites and reds, but they also release experimental wines that are always worth tasting. Their red Domaine Mercouri 2014 (unusually from 85% Refosco, 15% Mavrodaphne) is more ordinary since they launched a top cuvee (Domaine Mercouri Cava) but still good with deep colour, sweet red fruit on nose, tannic and with somewhat less fruit on palate. The star, undoubtedly, is Domaine Mercouri Cava 2012 - dark, almost black colour with a slight lighter edge, sweet red berry fruit and stewed prune on the nose, same on the palate, long, balanced and satisfying, very good indeed.

Chateau Porto Carras is no longer the star it was when the late John Carras established his magnificent estate in the north of Greece and hired Emile Peynaud as a consultant. There are now many plantings of foreign varieties all over Greece, more adventurous wine-making and a clearer vision with other producers. Since the estate was taken over by the banks and auctioned off to a large construction company they have become producers of wines that are competently made but rather ordinary, perhaps lacking passion. The 2006 Ch. Porto Carras on show had a ripe red fruit and oak nose, a clunky one-dimensional palate and finished bitter; I had hoped and expected for better.

The Economic wines from Crete are firmly in the 'interesting' category, with all the wines representing a bit of a challenge to thoughts and palate, but the whites especially: his Assyrtiko 2012 had a big, old-fashioned nose and spicy fruit on palate, untypical; his Sitia 2013 was golden-yellow, spicy on the palate but kind of weird. There was also an ethereal 2014 rose, but...

The sweet wines I tasted were:

a. Economou Sitia doux, a bit cloudy, complex burnt sugar on nose, less sweet but layered and complex on the palate, long.

b. Domaine Vakakis Samos Epogdon 2015 had a light golden colour, very sweet muscat nose, luscious, sweet rosewater/honey palate, long if not overly complex.

c. Argyros Vinsanto, of which I tasted several vintages, preferring (obviously...!) the older wines, though the 2014, with its subtle nose and complex dry palate of white peaches, was unusual and tickled my fancy. Vinsanto wines are jewels to be cherishes and sipped, not glugged.

Here I must stop, despite there being more notes to write up, perhaps another time and/or combined with something else.

Finally I would like to dedicate this post to my friend Lefteris Kouris, who passed away a few days ago rather unexpectedly. Well-known in the Greek wine world, his smiling face, sense of humour and underlying kindness will be missed by all who knew him - may he rest in peace.